Saturday, May 28, 2011

5-28-2011 Champagne Couloir, Mt Nebo

A 3:45 wake up turned into a 4:25 call from Sam wondering where I was.  I suck.  Luckily the guys waited for me.  The plan was to head up Nebo and ski the NW and the Champagne couloirs with Sam, Isaac, and Uncle Roman.  I couldn't have asked for a better morning.  The approach was beautiful, uneventful, and went pretty quick.

Sam and Uncle Roman, the valley was spotted with sun all morning, nice.

Uncle Roman gaining the final ridge

Transitioning

Sam on the summit ridge

Uncle Roman on the final headwall
 Once we summited, clouds rolled in.  Still pretty nice though. The short steep section entering into the Champagne was a little icy but other than than conditions were spectacular.  Soft in the upper 1/2 led to a firm, smooth, carvable lower section.  It's SO good to be back!  Not everyone was feeling super today so we decided to call it a day before heading back up the NW.  Next time I guess.  Sam and I also spotted a few other lines that need to be investigated...
Summit Cokes. Real ones, not diet, weird.

Sam

Uncle Roman

Sam

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

5-21-2011 Trans Zion, Zion National Park


 We had big plans for a couple different ski link-ups this weekend but the weather/conditions weren't looking too favorable. Not sure why giving the Trans Zion a go sounded appealing but it did.  After talking with a dozen different people Amanda and Warren were the only ones cool enough to drop plans and head to southern Utah.  Warren gets extra respect for driving through the night to arrive at our campsite only 30 mins before we woke him up to start shuttling cars.  A 48 mile day with 10,000 feet of vertical gain off of 30 mins of sleep isn't too shabby, I don't think we heard one complaint about it either.  Here's a video Andy made:

Untitled from andy dorais on Vimeo.

The East Rim part of the trail was pretty spectacular.
Cool, sunny weather for the start.  Photo by Warren
Heading towards Weeping Rock.  Photo by Warren
Towards the end of the East Rim trail. Photo by Andy
Once we hit the Grotto we filled up with water, chatted a bit and then headed towards the Angel's Landing shoulder.  The long up turned into a hike as opposed to a run.  We figured it was better to be a bit conservative at the beginning seeing as this would be 22 miles farther than Warren and my longest run ever and 17 miles longer than Andy's.  Also, all of us had run less than 10 times since January with only one of those being longer than 10 miles. I figured at least one if not all of us would be blowing up at some point during the run.  Surprisingly everyone kept it together.
Amanda with the heavy pack. Photo by Warren

Looking back towards Angel's Landing
I think we all agreed that the West Rim was probably the most scenic portion of the run.  As we randomly came across trail signs we somehow miscalculated our distance and figured we had run 6 miles less than what we actually had.  This was a little (a lot) disheartening...
Towards the start of the West Rim. Photo by Andy

View from the West Rim

The Ski Gorilla runs too.  Photo by Warren

Warren and Andy on the West Rim
 Once we got off the West Rim our we realized we were 31 miles in instead of 25, nice.  That helped the group's moral (at least mine) quite a bit.  From there on out the trail was less muddy so we could run more consistently, also nice.
On the Connector. Photo by Andy

View from the Connector. Photo by Andy
While on the Connector (20 miles from the end) Warren ran out of water and Andy and I were both lower than we would have liked.  Lucky for us, a few hikers told us they just stashed a gallon that they didn't want at the next trailhead. Another moral booster.  After the water we felt pretty good and rallied through Hop Valley, crossed a few rivers, started feeling crappy again, and finished with a 15 min hard effort to reach Lee's Pass in just under 12 hours.  Pretty fun to feel beat up every once in a while.
Warren in Hop Valley. Photo by Andy

Crossing the River in La Verkin.  Photo by Andy

Right before the Lee's Pass TH

Done!
 The next day we got to do a little sport climbing at Chuckwala Wall in St George.  Climbing, sitting in the shade, drinking Diet Mountain Dew and chatting was pretty relaxing.  Andy was grumpy though, the following picture proves it.

Amanda killing it, Andy being hungry
Talking about the run after the fact, Andy figured he didn't eat enough and was wishing he had packed a few more gels.  As we unpacked he found a little surprise in his fancy Nathan pack, HA!
6 gels and some gummy stuff
This is what I ate. 

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

5-13, 14, 15-2011 Red River Gorge



I had a good/great weekend in the RRG (last one as a local) even though the weather was pretty bad.  We had quite the international crew, Amanda came in from Utah, Thierry from France, Nuria from Spain, Fromke from Lexington and Topher, Nicole, April and Chris from Indy, nice!  I'm actually going to miss these guys (plus a few others) and climbing in the Red, weird. To make things even better, we had access to a cabin all weekend so we didn't have to camp in the rain.  April and Chris found a new dry area called Shawnee Shelter which was good since it was POURING.

Chris at the crux of  Noo-tha
Amanda, Noo-tha
Next up, Great Arch area.  We must have met the ONLY cool people from Colorado, that was a surprise.
April "on-sighting" at Great Arch. Photo by Amanda
The next day we decided to see if the Kia could make it down into a muddy Southern Region and get us to Shady Grove.  Luckily the Koreans make a pretty sweet car.  Chris was the MVP of the day for on-sighting Far From God (12b).  Topher was close to getting the on-sight too, I don't think he milked the lower rest enough... We found another amazing line that I'm sad I won't be able to get back on.  I guess Taste the Rainbow will have to wait. 
My French daddy

Taste the Rainbow. Photo by Nicole

Topher  resting on Far From God with Niki K belaying
Fromke 2/3 of the way up Taste the Rainbow

Monday, May 9, 2011

5-7-2011 Red River Gorge

Meaghan, not happy
Frenchman


It's fun to be back in the Midwest, I got the go to the Red with some good friends (Eric, Thierry, Sarah, Dave, Meagan) for the weekend.  Turns out skiing isn't the best training for long, endurance-heavy sport climbing.  Grades weren't the hardest but it was still fun to try hard and pull a few climbs off that didn't seem likely after the first couple goes.

Eric underneath Superfly at the Solar Collector (rope still hanging, pretty steep!)
C&C Music FactoryAfter the first day at the Solar Collector, Sarah was nice enough to invite us over to the cabin where we found a pretty amazing spaghetti and homemade meatball feast hot and ready the second we walked in the door.  Maybe one of the best post-climbing meals ever!  The next day I finally made it to the Chocolate Factory.  For the past year whenever I heard the name I pictured these guys, dancing by the rock. They weren't there, disappointing.




Sarah,  7th day in a row!
Fromke on the group's high point for the day of Cat's Demise
Thierry
About to fall. Photo by Thierry
Pretty fun, "It's cool, I love it." -TM