Elk Mountain Grand Traverse - Race recap

Dominique, Tom's GF, drove Tom, Teague, Andy and I down to the start of the Elk Mountain Grand Traverse in Crested Butte last Thursday.  We all had big hopes of representing SLC well and placing high.  

Last year Andy and I were in good position (basically tied for the lead) half way through the race and then proceeded to break a boot, get lost twice, and absolutely blow up.  Needless to say, it didn't end as planned.  This year the plan was to hold back over the first half of the race and then pick people off over the last half.      

The start, All photos by Dominique Maack

The start was odd to say the least.  After the first up in the resort there's a groomed down that transitions to off piste.  This year the groomed trail abruptly stopped just after a rollover and immediately turned into breakable crust over knee deep sugar/powder.  Everyone came rocketing over the roll in a full tuck expecting the groomer to keep going and just about everyone blew up as they augured in.  Marshell Thompson was the first to find the breakable and ended up breaking his pole.  We immediately counted him and Tom out.

The next two hours were spent swapping leads as the field broke trail though this horrendous breakable crust.  It would support one's weight for a step and they you'd sink to your knees.  The whole field ground to a halt and 340 participants were lined up back to back to back in a single file line over a mile or so.  340 headlamps in a line in the middle of a snowy field is quite the sight. 

Once we hit a snow mobile track the trail breaking was over and it was time to start racing again.  There was a group of 6 that formed (Tom/Marshell, Teague/Brad, Wick/Smith, A Nordic Team, Simmons/Kloser, Andy and I).  At first the nordic team was in the lead but we all figured they'd be a non factor since their gear is so incredibly hard to ski.  They ended up 5th - amazing.  Turns out olympic nordic guys can rip some steep descents on their gear.  

Heading up to the half way point Tom and Marshell put in a move, then Teague and Brad did.  Andy and I stuck with the plan and showed a little restraint.  We figured Marshell would fall apart with only one pole and, since we were still feeling fresh, we'd be able to reel in Teague and Brad.  We were wrong on both accounts.  Apart form not catching the other two teams, the last half of the race went exactly as Andy and I planned.  We felt strong and were moving quicker than expected.  Maybe our plan was a little too conservative. In the end, Tom/Marshell got the win (amazingly strong day with a broken pole!), Teague/Brad held on for second, and Andy and I held on for third.  The teams in our car swept the race!

Giving congrats to the winners, Andy coughing up 8 hours of movement

Everyone psyched to be on the podium!

The win would have been amazing but clearly the other two teams were faster that day.  That fact Marshell and Tom won with 3 1/2 poles is really impressive.  It kind of make us all look like chumps but I guess finishing second for the past two years (and some amazing fitness) motivated Marshell to keep pushing.

Again, our race went exactly as planned and whenever that happens it's hard to complain about anything.  After the whole disaster last year, we swore we'd never come back to this sufferfest but now it might turn into a tradition.  The whole event is unique and phenomenal.  From the gear prep to the racing in the middle of the night to the huge after-party in Aspen, the EMGT (or is it Gore-Tex Grand Traverse?) has something special.  If you haven't done it, next year might be a good time to start.

The winners looking like they're in  love.  

Cold Fusion/Elk Mountain Grand Traverse

For our last day of Elk Mountain Grand Traverse training (Tuesday) we headed down to the best peak in the state, Mt. Timpanogos.  The EMGT covers 40 miles and only gains 8000' so we figured the long flat approach to Cold Fusion would be an appropriate day.  We caught up with Adam, Tyler and Mike in the chute proper, took turns breaking trail to the top, and ended up skiing before the heat affected the snow too badly.  There was even a fair amount of dry wind sheltered powder. 

Andy half way up CF

Cold Fusion was recognized as one of the 50 classic ski descents in North America and with good reason.  But even with the decent snow we found, the line left something to be desired.  Maybe it's because I've skied it several times before but I think it's just that there are better lines on Timp. The Grunge, the West Face, Crescent Couloir just to name a few.  Again, CF's a great line and I'm not saying it was a bad day, I'm just saying the other lines on Timp are that good and should be skied! 

Now we're in Crested Butte making last minute preparations for the EMGT.  This is quite the event.  There are 180 teams and everyone's psyched to get going.  The midnight start and the length of the course give this race a unique feel. We've had decent training so we'll see how it goes...

A bunch of nervous skiers at the pre-race meeting

The gear list is long and makes for some heavy packs.  Here's what we're taking.

Timp West Face Video

Here's a video Andy put together of our day on Timp last week.  Yes, it was as icy as it looks!  Still a great day though.

Timp West Face From Battle Creek from andy dorais on Vimeo.

Timp, W. Face

Andy, Noah and I went down to Utah County to ski the W. Face of Timp.  After I slept in and was late to the car pool spot (sorry guys) we made our way to the Kiwana's Park in Pleasant Grove.  From there we walked a few miles on dirt up Battlecreek Canyon until we were standing on firm summer snow looking up at the W Face.  With 70 degree temps predicted in the Valley we figured there'd be some top notch corn to be had; we were glad to be on Timp again! Here's how the rest of the day looked.

Noah, Oquirrhs in the background

Low on the face. We could have bypassed this little rock band by skirting right.  In hindsight it was a good thing we went up it just so we weren't tempted to try and ski it... 

The guys working their way through the rock bands.

Higher up our firm summer snow turned variable.  At times it was rock hard and perfect for booting, other times it was breakable and deep.  Andy wallowing.

An ice glaze was added for the last few thousand feet. We could see the sun approaching and at this point and were still hopeful it would soften everything up.  If only we had our ski crampons we could have been skinning. Andy and Noah glad to have whippets.

The summit ridge with the sun just starting to hit the W Face. Once on top, we sat in the summit hut for an hour or so before we got too cold and headed out to brave the ice.  

The upper few hundred feet was wind hammered but still dry. Andy and Noah about to get some of the greatest snow on earth.

Near the summit, still in dry snow, photo by Andy

After a couple hundred feet, the aspect changed slightly and the snow turned icy.  We didn't wait long enough...
Noah, about to hit the icy portion

Andy, also entering the icy section lower on the face

The bullet proof  softened as we went and eventually turn into the corn we came for.  Noah skiing something shinny and in between ice and corn.

Out of the 6,800' we found at least a few thousand of great skiing.   I guess all the warm weather's good for something.  Photo by Andy

Three Great Days Video

Here's an amateur video Andy put together of a few of our ski days last week.  It's good to live in Utah!

Three Great Days from andy dorais on Vimeo.

NW couloir, The Pfeifferhorn

The northwest couloir of the Pfeifferhorn has to be one of the most aesthetic lines in the Wasatch. After skiing it for the first time in a few years ago I immediately jumped on a plane to Phoenix for a residency interview. During the entire interview I couldn't stop thinking about what my friends and I had done that morning. I'm pretty sure I bombed the interview. No matter, who wants to live in Arizona anyway? 

Today Virgil, Andy and I went back to attempt the northwest again. Feeling ambitious, we left the car at the Y pull out just in case. The skin up was as beautiful as always with great morning light and a recently placed skinner. It wasn't until we got to Red Pine Lake that we saw the party ahead of us doing all the work. We followed their path and caught up just as they were summiting. I typically enjoy breaking trail but this morning I wasn't complaining.  

Virgil towards the headwall above Red Pine Lake

Andy on the last couple feet to the ridge

Virgil nearing the ridge, Red Pine Lake in the background

Traversing towards the summit

The boney upper portion of the NW, the traversing ramp in the upper left

It was quite clear that the upper portion of the NW isn't exactly in right now.  There are a few slings up there to rap into the chute proper or you can walk the ridge over to the north side and traverse in on an icy little snow ramp.  We chose the latter and felt good about bringing a whippet.

In the chute we found icy crust up high and wind effected powder through out the remainder. It wasn't the best skiing but we were there for the granite/snow combo and the alpine feel the NW has, not powder turns.  Apart from a classic ski, the NW gives perfect access into Hogum Fork. It's just a little downhill traverse and you find yourself underneath all the steep east facing lines. We debated traversing that way and heading up the Needle via the already placed skinner, but the hot sun and the desire to eat and sleep before work in the evening kept us from pressing on. Although skiing more wind hammered snow would have been great, I think the Thai food and nap were an suitable substitution.

Andy nearing our entry

Virgil on the icy entry

Virgil in the upper portion of the NW

Andy nearing the rap station

Virgil on rappel

Virgil just after the rap

Andy a little lower

Grr Couloir to South Summit Couloir - Cascade Peak

I can't think of a bad outing I've had in Utah County.  The place is magical.  Andy, Tom, Layne and I headed down this last Saturday to poke around on the south side of Cascade peak.   10 minutes in I took my camera out (I brought the big one for the day figuring the setting would warrant hauling it around) and the back screen read, "change battery pack."  We were only 10 mins from the car but I knew my partners would drop me if I turned back.  I was stuck using a phone for the rest of the day.  Even though all the follow pictures are all grainy and poor quality I think the phone camera did a decent job. Andy and Layne wrote better write ups than I can do and had better pictures; their posts can be found here and here.   I'll let my phone's pictures tell the brief story...

  We parked at rock canyon, headed up to the camp ground and then followed the road to the base of the Grr. We were greeted with mountains of wet debris.  As least all of this wasn't still hanging overhead.

Besides feeling a little safer with much of the hang fire now filling the chute, it also make for quick, firm travel. 
 Andy, Layne, Tom, heading up the Grr Coulor

The lower Grr

Once we were close to the ridge that heads east to the south summit we had to make a few decisions.  1. Ski the Grr? No thanks 2. Traverse a rotten steep snow patch above a cliff band? No thanks. 3. Climb a rock and ice filled choke with no crampons?  Not ideal but we thought it beat the other options so we pushed on. 
Tom in the choke.

From there it was a short walk over to what was labeled as the South Summit on my map. (This and the next picture are from the big camera.  I had the battery in my pocket all morning hoping it would warm up and work for the down.  It didn't)
Layne traversing over.

  Layne topping out, Timp and Utah Lake in the background. 

The north facing half of the South Summit Couloir skied great but anything past the halfway point was a crusty mess.  Tom in the upper South Summit Couloir

Andy lower down, staying in the powder

About 1000' down the chute narrows and steepens a touch.  This happend to coincide with the start .of the wet debris. Andy in the wet debris buffed hard pack.

 Steep runnels with rock-hard wet debris plastered about turned our nice peaceful descent into survival/adventure skiing. No one would call it great skiing but I think we all found what we came for.
.Layne enjoying the hard pack/debris

Bailing on the Zeus Chute - Why'd it take so long?

After skiing the Triangle in primo conditions I was jones'n for some more. I knew Shaneen had just skied the Y in those same conditions so I figured he'd want a little more of the goods too.  He did.  We met at 7:30 and after I drove back home to get the skins I'd forgotten we started skinning around 8.  Down low it felt like summer.  It was sweltering and we even noticed a few roller balls falling as we were coming out of the trees.  No matter right?  We figured it'd be colder the higher up we go.  

Shaneen heading up a debris-less main chute (all photos of Shaneen)

Just after the branch point, the beginning of  the West Slabs just behind Shaneen

We made it to the base of the West Slabs and reevaluated.  It sure did feel colder. The skis were overcast, there was a slight breeze. I even had to put on big gloves and a hat.  At that point I figured wind slabs would be more of a problem than wet slides.  We dug a few hand pits and were both satisfied with the results.  Up we went.

If you're wondering, the turn off to the Zeus is pretty close after the ducking left under the West Slabs.  We weren't sure and ended up looking into a few other turn offs higher up before skiing back down to the entrance of the Zeus.  Google Earth helped again and once in the chute proper we found a little bit of breakable mixed with rocks and bushes.  The skiing wasn't going to be great but the location was new and quite scenic.  We dug another hand pit, felt good about it, and kept moving upward.

The crux, pull on the branch to get past a few rocks, move

We made it 800-1000' before we saw a couple roller balls coming at us.  They were tiny and no threat but a pretty good warning of things to come.  We talked about turning around and decided we should but just wanted to peek around the corner and see where we were.  Five or so minutes later we looked down and saw sizable wet debris pouring off the side walls of the main chute.  Once again we decided we really should get out but before we did, we took a few steps more.  Not more than a handful of steps, but we took them before the final decision was made.  As we were transitioning, the sun started coming out.  We had already decided to bail but now there was a little sense of urgency.

From there, all of the skiing save a few turns was poor to quite poor.  Breakable with random bushes and rocks thrown in the mix.  The location was the redeeming factor and in better conditions I'm sure the line is worth more than the one star it gets in the Chuting Gallery.

Shaneen skiing the breakable mank

More breakable down to the city

The start of the good turns

The end of the good turns

The lowest of the debris piles

After entering main chute we were greeted with mounds of wet debris.  All the mini chute-lets that feed into main chute had dumped their loads all over our skinner.  I don't know if the upper mountain has rained debris down the Zeus yet but I'm guessing it did, or it will at some point today. Regardless, we got out before it did (and I'm glad it didn't take the blazing hot sun to make to turn around) but the question in my mind stands; why didn't we turn around at the first sign of roller balls down low? Or the second? Or the immediately after the third? I guess it's easy to rationalize why the warning signs are no big deal - it'll get colder, we're on sun protected terrain, it'll take two seconds to look around the corner, blah blah blah.  But given the consequences of a bad choice shouldn't it be easier to rationalize turning around early than continuing on?  I guess we got lucky, lesson learned, again.