Sunday, April 10, 2011

4-9-2011 Sam's Canyon part 2

The forecast showed that it would be in the teens at 8000 feet, we had to go back to what we saw the day before. Unlike yesterday, we were prepared for a little climbing today.  
Andy, Jared, Aaron
Yesterday's line straight ahead 
Today's line!
As we were racking up, a few stray rock came whizzing by our heads.  Maybe (definitely) we should have pulled the plug then.  I think we were all a little excited so we ignored the fact that the clouds were getting thin and that it was getting warm.  Stupid.  I was lucky enough to win the lead though.  Pretty fun.

Ice
On top of the first ice flow there wasn't much in the way of anchors.  The ice was crappy, so was the rock and the snow wasn't very deep.  Two buried picks and a mediocre screw did the job.

Anchor
Andy and Jared made it up but as Aaron started climbing, the clouds completely disappeared. It got hot, quick.  Strom snow from overnight started to pour over everything.  Our ice included.  Aaron got hammered with snow, he said he felt like he was on the movie Vertical Limit. This clip is the tail end of the snow, wish I would have caught the brunt of it.

video

We most certainly had over stayed our welcome. Again, stupid. Since anchors were sparse, Andy and Jared rigged a V thread in suspect ice while I buried an avy shovel.  We rapped off the shovel backed up to the V thread.  Luck for Andy and I, we weigh more so we went first with Jared backing us up.  Luck for Jared, the shovel was bomber.

Jared 
 The ski out was deep and heavy. Still fun.
Andy

Happy to be down
Oh yeah, as Andy belayed, he got hit with a rock, softball sized.  Helmets are always a good idea.

Andy's shoulder

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